Short answer: this is seamless Gr2 titanium tube in 1,000 mm lengths, in 1.0 mm or 1.2 mm wall, across ten outside diameters from 1 in to 3.5 in. Choose the diameter by the pipe the section has to join, then choose the wall by how the joint will be welded and how much support the run has. Length is fixed at 1,000 mm, so the planning question is how many pieces the build needs.
It is fabrication stock, not a bolt-on part. There are no bends, no flanges and no hardware in the box — you are buying the straight material that a welder turns into a system. That is worth stating plainly, because most of the returns on tube stock come from buyers who expected a finished section.
What is Gr2 titanium straight pipe?
Gr2 is commercially pure titanium, specified here to ASTM B338. The tube is seamless, which means it is formed without a longitudinal weld seam, and it is supplied at 1,000 mm with both ends cut square and de-burred.
The two properties that matter for an exhaust build are on the listing: it is roughly 45% lighter than steel at comparable strength, and it is highly corrosion resistant. Those two together are the whole reason titanium gets used on a car rather than stainless — mass where it hangs off the back of the car, and a surface that does not care about road salt.
Both walls in the grid — 1.0 mm and 1.2 mm — are thin enough that the material behaves like sheet when you weld it. That is a fit-up question, not a strength question, and it is what the wall section below is about.
Why does seamless matter on a welded build?
A seamed tube carries a longitudinal weld down its length. On a fabricated exhaust that seam is one more thing to think about: it can sit where you want to make your own joint, it can pull slightly when you weld near it, and on a polished or brushed finish it is a line that shows.
Seamless removes that variable. There is no seam weld to dress and no orientation to plan around — you can clock the tube any way you like and the wall behaves the same in every direction.
For a visible titanium system, that also means the finish is consistent around the circumference, which is the difference between a section that looks fabricated and one that looks manufactured.
How do you choose the diameter?
Match the outside diameter to the pipe the section joins. The grid runs in quarter-inch steps up to 2.25 in, then in half-inch steps:
| Outside diameter (in) | Walls available | Commonly used for |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Small-bore runners and balance pipes |
| 1.25 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Small-bore sections |
| 1.5 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Primary runners |
| 1.75 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Primary runners, larger bore |
| 2 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Secondary and mid sections |
| 2.25 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Mid sections |
| 2.5 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Common mid-pipe size |
| 2.75 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Mid to rear transitions |
| 3 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Main system bore |
| 3.5 | 1.0 / 1.2 mm | Large single systems |
The third column is indicative only — sizing follows the bore of the system you are building, not the table. Measure the actual pipe, not the nominal size on a previous order. Tube sold as 3 in is not always exactly 3.000 in at the outside, and a slip joint that has to close a 0.5 mm gap behaves very differently from one that has to close 2 mm. If the section is going to be butt-welded rather than slipped, the diameter still has to match — a mismatch becomes a step in the bore that you cannot weld out cleanly.
If you need a size that is not in the grid, confirm availability before you plan the build around it rather than assuming it can be added.
1.0 mm or 1.2 mm wall?
Both walls are in the grid at every diameter, and the 1.2 mm option is the dearer of the two throughout. The choice is about weld behaviour and support, not about pressure rating.
| 1.0 mm | 1.2 mm | |
|---|---|---|
| Mass | Lighter — the reason titanium gets used at all | Slightly heavier, still far below steel |
| Fit-up tolerance | Needs tight joints; gaps are unforgiving | More forgiving of a small gap or a slightly out-of-square cut |
| Heat input | Less margin — too much heat distorts or burns through | More margin before distortion |
| Dent resistance | Lower; a thin wall shows handling damage | Higher |
| Best for | Experienced TIG work, well-supported runs, weight-first builds | First titanium build, long unsupported spans, sections that get handled |
If you are new to titanium, 1.2 mm is the more forgiving place to start: the extra 0.2 mm buys margin exactly where beginners lose parts — fit-up and heat. If the build is weight-driven and the joints will be well supported, 1.0 mm is the point of using titanium in the first place.
How many pieces does a build need?
Every section is 1,000 mm, so the arithmetic is about joints, not about total metres.
Work from a layout drawing or a mock-up with the old system removed, and count the straight runs between bends. Each straight run becomes one piece, and every cut costs you material at the joint. Two things to plan for:
- Cut loss. A 1,000 mm section does not yield 1,000 mm of finished straight pipe once you have cut it square and fitted it. Plan the cut list so you are not relying on the last few millimetres.
- Spares. A mis-cut piece of titanium is not recoverable the way a mild steel offcut is. On a first build, one spare section per diameter is cheaper than a second order plus shipping plus waiting.
If the build also needs a muffler core, the perforated tube is a different product with its own bore and perforation options — see the titanium perforated tube guide. This listing is solid-wall tube only.
How do you cut and prepare it?
Both ends arrive cut square and de-burred, which means the factory cut is the reference face — measure from it, and do not assume a field cut will be as clean. When you cut:
- Mark around the circumference, not on one side only, so the cut stays square.
- Cut with a method that does not drag heat into the wall — a thin wall distorts before it looks like it is in trouble.
- De-burr the inside edge as well as the outside. An internal burr becomes a step in the bore and a place for a weld to sit proud.
- Test-fit before welding, with the joint clamped, and check the bore alignment through the joint.
- Clean the joint area before welding — contamination is the usual cause of a poor titanium weld, not the machine setting.
What this product is not
Worth being explicit before ordering:
- Not a bolt-on section. Nothing here attaches to a factory flange without fabrication.
- Not bent. Straight stock only; bends are made by you or by a fabricator.
- No flanges, clamps or hardware. Those are separate parts.
- Not a finished surface. Tube stock is supplied as mill material, not as a polished show piece.
If you are still deciding whether titanium is the right material at all, the titanium vs SS304 comparison covers where the extra cost actually shows up and where it does not.
Are mill certificates available?
Yes, on request. Mill certificates matter when the build has to be documented — motorsport scrutineering, a customer who is paying for certified material, or any job where someone downstream will ask what the tube actually is.
Ask for them when you order rather than after the tube has been cut. A certificate that describes a heat number is only useful if it can be tied back to the pieces you received, and that link is easiest to make before fabrication starts.
Frequently asked questions
What does Gr2 mean?
Gr2 is Grade 2 commercially pure titanium, specified here to ASTM B338. It is the standard fabrication grade for exhaust tube — commercially pure rather than alloyed.
Is the tube seamless or welded?
Seamless. There is no longitudinal seam weld, so there is no seam to dress and no orientation to plan around when you make your own joints.
What length does one piece come in?
1,000 mm, with both ends cut square and de-burred.
Should I choose 1.0 mm or 1.2 mm wall?
1.2 mm if you want margin on fit-up and heat, or if the run is long and unsupported. 1.0 mm if weight is the priority and the joints will be tight and well supported. The 1.2 mm option is priced higher at every diameter.
Can I weld it with a normal TIG setup?
Titanium needs shielding from atmosphere while it is hot, which is a different discipline from welding stainless. Plan the shielding and the joint cleanliness before you start; a thin wall leaves little room to fix a contaminated weld.
Does it come with flanges or clamps?
No. This listing is solid-wall tube only — no flanges, clamps or hardware. Those are separate parts.
Is a size outside the grid available?
The orderable grid on this listing runs from 1 in to 3.5 in outside diameter. Confirm availability with the seller before planning a build around any size that is not in that grid.
Are mill certificates included?
They are available on request. Ask when you order so the certificate can be tied to the material you receive.
Ordering titanium straight pipe
If you know the outside diameter and the wall, the order is a single choice from the size grid on the Gr2 titanium straight pipe listing: ten diameters from 1 in to 3.5 in, in 1.0 mm or 1.2 mm wall, 1,000 mm per piece, seamless, cut square and de-burred.
For the surrounding stock, straight tubing covers the other straight sections and fabrication parts covers the components that go with them. If this is your first titanium build, read the wall section twice — it is the decision that is hardest to correct after the tube is cut.
Related: Parts covered here: Titanium Welded Straight Tube — 1000 mm.